The plate, or cliché, is the heart of pad printing: it carries your design as a fine recess from which the pad picks up the ink. If you make your own plates, you no longer depend on delivery times and can print a new design the same day. In this guide we explain which types of plates exist and how to make a photopolymer plate step by step.

What is a cliché in pad printing?

A cliché is a printing plate with the design etched or engraved into it. During printing the plate is covered with ink, the excess ink is wiped off, and ink stays only in the recesses. The silicone pad picks up this ink and transfers it onto the object.

Which types of plates are there?

Steel plates

Steel plates are very hard-wearing and can handle very long runs. They are usually made by specialist companies, for example by etching or laser engraving. They are the usual choice for industrial production with high volumes.

Photopolymer plates

Photopolymer plates have a light-sensitive polymer layer. They are exposed to UV light and then developed. This can be done with little equipment in your own workshop. They suit beginners, samples, small and medium runs, and anyone who changes designs often.

What you need to make your own plates

Making a plate: step by step

1. Prepare the design

Create your design in your graphics software in pure black, without grey tones. Make sure very fine lines and small text are still printable, and test with a sample if in doubt. The design must sit on the film so that it appears the right way round on the object later. Check the orientation before printing the film.

2. Print the film

Print the design with a laser printer on the transparent film. The black must be fully opaque. When you hold the film up to the light, no light should shine through the black areas.

3. Expose

Place the film on the photopolymer plate and close the exposure unit so that film and plate are pressed firmly together. Expose for 2 minutes. The UV light hardens the areas that are not covered by the black design. Under the black, the material stays soft.

Then remove the film, place the black raster film on the plate and expose for 1 more minute. The raster creates a pattern of fine dots in the etched areas. This way the plate holds the ink evenly even in larger areas, and the doctor blade does not pull it out.

TIP: These times apply to our plates with our UV exposure unit. With other plates or units, first make a test with a small strip and different times.

4. Develop

Wash out the unhardened areas with the developer and the soft brush. Work with light, circular movements until the design is visible as a clean recess.

5. Dry and post-expose

Let the plate dry completely. Many photopolymer plates are then exposed once more without film, so that they harden fully and last longer during printing. Follow the instructions for your plates.

6. Test print

Mount the plate in the machine and make a few test prints. Check that all details transfer completely and that the edges are clean.

Common mistakes and their causes

  • Fine details are missing: often overexposed, or a film that is not opaque enough
  • The design washes out during developing: often underexposed
  • Blurred edges: film and plate were not pressed firmly together during exposure
  • The plate wears quickly: not fully dried or not post-exposed

Frequently asked questions

How long does a photopolymer plate last?

That depends on the ink, the material of the object and how you look after the plate. For small and medium runs a photopolymer plate is usually enough. For very long runs, steel plates last longer.

Can I reuse a plate?

Yes. Clean the plate thoroughly after printing and store it protected from light, dust and scratches. You can then use it again for later reprints of the same design.

Do I need a separate plate for each colour?

Yes. In pad printing each colour is printed in its own pass with its own plate.